Alegria in Mexico

FELIZ FELIZ FELIZ!

2011-12-26T10:22:00.000-06:00

I love Christmas cards including the ones that come in via e-mail. So here a few of my favorites!

La cocina mexicana, nuestro legado al mundo.

And this on the prehispanic custom of eating Romeritos from Chef Claudio Hall

of La Fonda del Refugio of Mexico City

AND FROM OUR FRIEND OF SLOW FOOD INTERNATIONAL IN MANY LANGUAGES!

and from the Pug of Burro Hall .......

Christmas and New Years in Mexico City - WHERE TO EAT ?

2011-12-21T14:01:00.000-06:00

I decided to do some research after some friends called me to say that they would be here for the holidays and weren't sure where to eat in the city and asked for recommendations.

Always one happy to suggest my favorite places I began to call to see what was on offer. This because I normally spend my holidays at home cooking and sharing with my friends.

Well it did start to seem very bleak when the following restaurants all concurred that they would be closing for the holidays. Paxia and Dulce Patria will be closed from Dec. 24 till after the first of January.

Pujol will be closed for Dec. 24 and Dec. 25th, opened from De. 26th till Dec. 30th. Closed from Dec. 31 till January 8th.

Izote will be opened for Dec. 24th and Dec. 31st until 11 PM. Closed Dec. 25th and Jan. 1st.

El Cardenal, all locations, will be closed on Dec. 24th, 25th, 31st and Jan. 1.

Los Danzantes will open for breakfast and comida/lunch on Dec. 24th and Dec. 31 from 9:30 AM till 5 PM. Closed Dec. 25th and Jan. 1st.

Oh Mayahuel, my favorite mezcaleria, will open on Dec. 24th and 31st from 12:30 PM to 5 PM.
OPEN on Dec. 25th and Jan. 1st from 6:30 PM till after midnight. This will be one of the few good places to open on these dates!

El Bajio in Azcapotzalco, the only one I go to, will be closed Dec. 24th, 25th, 31st and Jan. 1st.
Call other locations for closings.

D.O., not Mexican but Chef Pablo Roman is fabulous, will be closed on Dec. 24th and Jan. 1st.
For Dec. 26th till Jan. 9th they will only be serving comida/unch from 1 till 4:30 PM.

Jaso will be closed on Dec. 24th, 25th and Jan.1.

Piazza Navona will be closing at 6 PM on Dec. 23rd and closed on Dec. 24th and 25th.

So the big question is WHO IS OPENING for New Years? with the caveat worth eating at:

Jaso and Piazza Navona, neither Mexican but very good indeed will be serving a New Years Eve menu

Jaso with Chefs Jared Reardon and Sonia Arias will be serving a Mexican inspired menu BUT you must reserve in advance either in person or by phone with American Express.

Chef Guy Santoro of Piazza Navona will be offering a set menu for $950 pesos plus service) that will include a champagne toast and the requisite 12 grapes for midnight, with live music.

OH MY GOSH! does that help, please let me know!

And for those who just need some old fashioned Mexican comfort food - my absolute "old faithful" place in all of Mexico City Cafe El Popular in the Centro Historico NEVER CLOSES!

Address

Av 5 de Mayo 52

Transport

Allende

Phone

55 5518-6081

Owner Jose Luis Eng at Cafe El Popular!

Weekend Happenings in Condesa & Roma !

2011-11-26T13:10:00.002-06:00

This is one of those weekends when there is so much happening in Colonia Condesa and Colonia Roma that it will be difficult choosing where to start. From a Gastronomic food festival in Parque Mexico, Saturday and Sunday shopping days at the Mercado el 100 and the ever popular Corredor Cultural Roma Condesa.

Thanks to the Corredor Cultural there is a detailed map with the Art and Design route clearly mapped, all gallery/boutique participants listed with their web sites.

http://www.ccromacondesa.mx/?p=169

This 7th season brings with it some new "routes", the Gastronomic route and a walk through the emblematic architectural and socially significant sites of both Colonias with Juan Pedro Uribe, noted contemporary chronicler of Mexico City.

Too late for today Saturday workshop don't miss tomorrows Sunday Cooking workshop with Cuisibani.

Check out the complete list of artisan producers on Mercado el 100's website and start your shopping list now. You might want to order your holiday organic turkey from Granja Cocotla who every week brings fresh turkey and rabbit to the market. And if you love european style artisanal breads take a taste of Pan 100's german style "butter" squares or their multigrain breads ...... only two of the dozen of small growers who bring farm fresh produce, herbs, cheeses,flowers and on and on......

BUT if all you want to do is take a stroll to do some snacking along the way Parque Mexico in the Foro Lindbergh is the place to go. An international variety of foods with an al fresco bistro setting for some will be satisfying the weekend crowds today and tomorrow.

2nd Gastronomic Festival Mexico City

Even the Tajmahal has its own stand ...

One of my favorite Lebanese restaurants Miguel of Colonia Roma

Cote Sud Bistro

Miguel restaurant and a full Lebenese menu

and the Blah Blah Argentian parrilla with grilled chorizos ...

ENJOY THE WEEKEND!

CELEBRATION Mexican Cuisine - Intangible Patrimony of Humanity

2011-11-16T07:20:00.001-06:00

Today is the one year anniversary of the UNESCO declaration for Traditional Mexican Cuisine as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

With its "ancestral, ongoing community culture " known as the Michoacán paradigm Mexico with 12 years of incredible effort was able to achieve this distinction.

Today those who were instrumental in preparing and presenting the application will be celebrating this achievement at El Tajin restaurant.

Join them in support and celebration!

El Grito!

2011-09-15T10:42:00.001-05:00

¡ Vivan los heroes que nos dieron Patria y libertad !¡ Viva Miguel Hidalgo !¡ Viva Morelos ¡¡ Viva Allende !¡ Viva la independencia de Mexico !¡ Viva Mexico ¡¡ Viva Mexico !

To celebrate Mexican Independence in its capital Mexico City is an experience like no other - a riot of white, green and red with outrageous decorations for yourself and any friends you may bring along with assorted fun filled mayhem . If that doesn't get you excited I don't know what will BUT to face this marathon celebration you have to be well fed, so here my picks for today and tomorrow in the Centro Historico of Mexico City.

On your way to the Zocalo to wait till midnight perhaps a stop at La Casa del Pavo is in order. On Calle Motolinia, just a small sign to let you know you have arrived, for $40 pesos on up hearty Tortas de Pavo.

On Calle Palma the venerable but always consistent El Cardenal

Suggested dishes - Mixote de flor de maguey con escamoles Talk about tradition, millennial that is. And of course their not too sweet Chiles en Nogada, or Pechuga de pollo stuffed with goat cheese in a Mole Coloradito ...... Mmmmm

Another favorite the Casa de los Azuelos for those who need the assurance of clean bathrooms and now even musical accompaniment for their dining pleasure. The must have dish Enchiladas Suizas.

You might even run into Miguel Hidalgo or Jose Maria Morelos

Of course could we leave out the Hosteria de Santo Domingo - where artists, Dr.Atl and Augustin Lara come immediately to mind, politicians, better not to be named and countless DF'enos have celebrated, mourned and even eaten quite well since 1860.

An old favorite, since 1914, Cafe El Popular - with regional and traditional dishes 24 hours a day - and a favorite of after the Grito fanatics - everything from breakfast conchas and hot chocolate to tamales and huevos divorciados to of course Chiles en Nogada. Welcoming after the Zocalo crush, but there may be a wait....

Jose Luis Eng handling the after Grito crowd outside Cafe El Popular

San Francisco Ferry Market

2011-09-02T10:52:00.011-05:00

I took so many pictures that its hard to winnow down my favorites but here they are

My dream kitchen

Shopping alongside Alice Waters at Boulettes Larder.

Sand dabs - so great!

Summer in the USA - West and East Coast

2011-09-02T09:33:00.001-05:00

Thanks again to my readers who have kept the faith and keep checking for a new post ... its been long in coming ( my last post was on Fany Gerson ) but here a quick recap on

"What I did on my summer vacation"....

California here we come - where granddaughter Em and I were scheduled to do college visits, but with good friends from IACP it turned into college visits plus food centric side trips!

Terry and Ray and that amazing oven.

Our hosts in San Francisco were Terry and Ray Paetzold, Terry is a former chef at Postino Restaurant, and owner of In Terry’s Kitchen where she teaches culinary classes throughout the year. And yes that outdoor oven has dinner in it - Pollo al Mattone or Chicken under a brick

At University of the Pacific, during yet one more campus "visit, we were also able to meet Ken Albala food historian and master food "ranter", as well as a most prolific author. A tour of Stockton and lunch with Ken made me appreciate academia even more.

Ken at his very best!

A trip to the Fan Francisco Ferry Market was in order and we were quickly overwhelmed with sounds, sights and aromas that made us want to try everything at once...

a little sweet in the morning..... with Lori Regis at Boulettes Larder

and these are fresh vegetables .....

Speaks for itself ...

Inside the Ferry Building and more to see and EAT!

So many varieties - so sweet ....

Steve Sando's Heirloom Bean Growers Guide Book

I left my heart in San Francisco .......

Mexico Glorious Mexico AKA Food Glorious Food

2011-06-19T10:10:00.001-05:00

Yes, sometimes my blog reports get interrupted by Mexico and its glorious food.. what can I say but a heartfelt thanks to those of my followers who are still with me. Your reward and mine to relive the last 8 weeks of incredible, over the top glorious food.....

Lets start with author Fany Gerson of La Newyorkina whose two books My Sweet Mexico and Paletas, just released, are getting rave reviews from the critics and avid cookbook readers alike. Fany, a native of Mexico City, was in town filming for an upcoming television production - stay tuned for more on this.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rtacondechi/sets/72157626872009361/

Lest we forget old friends - writer, journalist, gastronome and true gentle man Giorgio De'Angeli was honored in an exposition called Saberes y Sabores, roughly translated wisdom and taste, two things that Giorgio was always eager to share.

The event held at the Veracruzan Cultural Center, home to El Tajin restaurant, was a gathering with well known chefs, artisanal food producers, artisan craftsmen and an enthusiastic throng of budding Slow Food gastronomes.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rtacondechi/sets/72157626996761844/

Not yet done on our "foodie" adventures what better way then to spend a morning with like minded friends then doing a recorrido/journey to some of my favorite breakfast places.

With Lesley Tellez of The Mija Chronicles and Ben Herrera of What's Cooking Mexico we spent the morning in Azcapotzalco home to two delicious and traditional Mexican restaurants. First on the list was Nico's where friend Chef Gerardo Vazquez Lugo took time to talk to Lelsey about her perfect concha search - for me it ends here at Nico's, until I get to the next "perfect" concha.

Lesley enjoying her Jugo Verde - green juice of cactus paddles, celery, xococnostle and orange juice...

and what better to follow up then a visit to La Nicolasa, Nico's Slow Food based "tienda" for the best in artisanal food products from the best olive oils, cheeses and beans to organic eggs and meats... and so much more.

and a little shopping as well........

Then off to El Bajio for a quick hello to Mayora Sandra who has been for 30 years the mainstay of El Bajio's kitchens

We can never leave without a tasting of atole and quesadillas.... for the trip back home!

Stay with us for the next blog post to finish May events - still to come wine tasting at Los Azteca vineyards in Queretaro and Patricia Quintanas Aromas y Sabores 2012 gastronomic journey through Mexico!

Pujol and Chef Enrique Olvera The World's 50 Best Restaurant Awards

2011-04-23T11:11:00.000-05:00

From the San Pellegrino site on Pujol:

"Head chef Enrique Olvera has switched from fancy dining to Mexican food “with soul” at Pujol with market-inspired dishes that nod to a strong cultural legacy.

Cooking in clay pots has ousted the water bath but the food is no less modern – think coffee, corn and flying ants toasted and ground into a powder, stuffed into a dried pumpkin and wrapped in corn leaves, then heated to evoke a balmy Mexican street scene."

And yes we heartily agree that Pujol has taken Mexican cuisine to the international arena of recognition. There were others who also recognized the talent and creativity that Chef Olvera was showing in Pujol - Stan Sesser in 2008 of the Wall Street Journal when he dubbed Mexico City

"The World's Greatest Food City" and again when Project Explorer went into the kitchen and interviewed Chef Olvera, ditto for Chef Deborah Schneider of SOL restaurant in California when she dined at Pujol.

Congratulations to Chef Enrique Olvera and his team at Pujol!

Chef José Ramón Castillo y KAKAW!

2011-04-05T16:44:00.000-05:00

Presentación del libro "KAKAW"

Chef José Ramón Castillo los invita a la presentación del libro “KAKAW” que recientemente ganó el Premio como Mejor Libro y Material de la Humanidad en los Gourmand World Cookbook Awards en París, Francia.

Día: Miércoles 6 de Abril del 2011

Hora: 12 del medio día

Lugar: Cinemex, Antara Polanco, Ciudad de México

Valor del libro: $500 (en efectivo)

Todo el dinero de las ventas del libro, será donado a “Casa Hogar Auxilio A.C.” en Chiapas.

Los esperamos!

Chef José Ramón Castillo invites us to the presentation of his book "KAKAW" which recently won the Gourmand World Cookbook award as the Best in Category and Content in Paris, France.

TOMORROW Wednesday April6, 2011

Time: Noon

Place: Level Cinemex, Antara Polanco, Mexico City

Book price : $500 pesos ( cash only)

ALL MONIES FROM THE SALE OF THE BOOK WILL BE DONATED TO "CASA HOGAR AUXILIO A.C. IN CHAIPAS.

First Food & Wine Festival Ixtapa Zihuatanejo!

2011-03-31T07:57:00.006-06:00

Food and Wine magazines popular Foodie Fest comes to Mexico, its first ever Latin American venue. Classes, restaurant visits, exclusive house tours, catamaran twilight cruises.. what more is there. Oh yes Ixtapa Zihuatanejo's beaches, night life, golf courses and did I mention the fabulous restaurants - from market to alta cocina.

Celebrations are in order now that Ixtapa Zihuatanejo joins the prestigious list of cities and resorts that host Food and Wine Magazines' Festivals.

With the title of " MEXICO 32 TASTES. 1 HISTORY. 1 SOUL" Food and Wine pulled out all the stops to make this debut an event to be remembered.

Opening night at Casa Alegria

Star Chef Rick Bayless , Chef Stephan Pyles from the United States and from Mexico Chef Federico Lopez of Cancun, Chef Enrique Olvera Mexico City, and Chef Guillermo González Beristáin of Monterrey and TV personality Chef Alfredo Oropeza took center stage guiding the attendees and preparing classic and contemporary interpretations of Mexican Cuisine.

Mark your calendar's for next years chef studded Ixtapa Food and Wine Festival 2012 .

La Colonia Roma Hot Spot!

2011-03-30T09:07:00.002-06:00

La Nacional La Botica La Nuclear

The Colonia Roma in Mexico City has always been a magnet for the famous and the infamous. Since its beginnings as a Porfiarto gem of european styles residences, for the wealthy elite, to its bohemian wild life, its was here that Kerouac and Burroughs wrote, ingested peyot and took pot shots at each other, the Roma has been a hot spot and mecca.

For the last decade or so its fame as an art gallery mecca for contemporary art has grown as has its penchant for high end restaurants, boutique hotels, and small artisan shops. Its "precious" attitude stops dead in its tracks on the corner of Calle Queretaro and Orizaba in the southern section of the Roma and acts as a loci for three extremely "Mexican" watering holes.

The first and longest established is La Nacional which specializes in the "other" beers of Mexico, truly a new focus since there are only two very large corporations that dominate the beer industry. With over 20 brands and some highly unusual flavors, barleywine, stout and abbey ale among others, La Nacional's gritty look and feel are an allure to the young and hip. But it doesn't end there since they also have a full dining menu.

Not the case for La Botica, another highly regarded boutique mezcal "chain". With just a hole in the wall look this over four year old "mezcaleria" attracts its own devotees and serves only small bites to accompany its small production mezcals bottled in what looks like 19th century apothecary jars.
Good flavors on both counts.

Now for the new kid on the block, actually around the corner on Quertaro. They're still hammering, painting and getting ready but La Nuclear but for now its looks like a new PULQUERIA is about to arrive. As soon as an opening date is set - we'll let you know. For now just the photos will tell the story. Enjoy!

Diana Kennedy Cookbook of the Year James Beard Winner Oaxaca al Gusto

2011-03-24T08:15:00.005-06:00

And finally the James Beard Book Award winners - Cookbook of the Year

Oaxaca al Gusto: An Infinite Gastronomy
by Diana Kennedy

Hurrah for Diana

DIANA KENNEDY

Diana Kennedy will make one of her rare personal appearances Friday April 8th at the Auditorio del Jardin Botanico Exterior en Cuidad Universitaria.

Her book "Oaxaca al Gusto" will be available for purchase in English and Spanish. This appearance was scheduled before the announcement by the James Beard Foundation that "Oaxaca al Gusto" had been nominated for an award.

A not to be missed opportunity.

TEO - TALLER ENRIQUE OLVERA

2011-03-22T11:14:00.001-06:00

.... and how do you spend your weekend? Relaxing, reading, going out, the movies?

Well now there's another option on how to spend a Saturday, with one of Mexico's most recognized chefs selecting, chopping and cooking what the local market has to offer. Chef Enrique Olvera offers a seasonal "Mercado a Cocina" class that takes you to the mercado San Juan, justly famous for its offerings, to poke prod and buy the best of ingredients.

Then its off to TEO, the teaching section of his operations on Calle Petrarca in Polanco, to create and invent with those fabulous ingredients.
No written recipes per se but a guide to flavors and his young and creative staff leading you while you combine and plan your own "Pujol" style mexican dish.

Our Crew

Its an experience that I couldn't say no to and so this past Saturday I spent the day with Chef Enrique and a group of 16 non and pro gastronomes learning, testing and finally savoring our creations.

Supreb!

Museo Soumaya

2011-03-17T08:03:00.000-06:00

Ready, get set, GO! Where?

To the opening of the new and extraordinary Museo Soumaya, and extraordinary because of its design and two year long notoriety as the $70 million USD ( not pesos) museum built to house Mexico's, and Carlos Slim's, "world class" art collection.

Thanks to UrbanSketchers mexico

With its design that left passersby scratching heads and muttering under their breaths the opening date of the FREE admission museum is upon us. On March 29th all will be revealed as the doors open to the general public. Sixty six thousand pieces of art works and the second largest Rodin collection in the world will be rivaled by the interest in the inner construction of what for many looks like an "oversize mushroom". But the party has already begun with an official opening attended by President Calderon and the creme de la creme of Mexican society and you can have a sneak preview as well thanks to the BBC News desk.

ST. Valentine's and the Xoloitzcuintli

2011-02-14T08:27:00.001-06:00

Today is St. Valentine's Day and for weeks here in Mexico we've been bombarded with cute red hearts, chocolate ads and cocktails combining any number of sickening sweet ingredients. With lists of Mexico City restaurants offering "Aphrodisiac Tasting menus" I was sure that this mornings news reports would all be in the same vein.

But no, this mornings news brought us joy and a love in the form of a canine whose history was more on the "point of extinction" then of a pup beloved by everyone.

Made famous by association to Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera the Xoloitzcuintli a Mexican grey, hairless breed with a 3,000 year history is making an unexpected celebrity comeback. This mornings New York Times report of its inclusion in the exclusive AKC ( American Kennel Club ) lists will see rocketing popularity worldwide and perhaps less disparaging remarks.

Thanks to the Museo Dolores Olmedo a group of Xolooitzcuintle have had a home, albeit a public one, on the grounds of the museum as part of the museum logo.

QUE VIVA EL XOLOITZCUINTLI!

Candelaria!

2011-02-01T05:50:00.001-06:00

One of the most enjoyable of Mexico's traditional feast days is Candelaria or the Presentation at the Temple celebrated with tables ladened with Tamales of different fillings, wrappings and seasonings and served with atoles as varied as the tamales they accompany.

Tamales, from the nahuatl meaning wrapped, have a primordial place in Mexican culinary culture serving as a celebratory dish and sometimes as a religious offering. They range from simple finger sized corn wrapped snacks filled with just beans or quelites - wild greens - to the imposing and enormous - reaching 80 kilos - mythical Zacahuil wrapped with banan leaves and filled with large pieces of turkey and pork.

Tonight Tuesday Slow Food celebrates with the Tamalada and Atole Laboratorio del Gusto at the Fonda San Angel beginning at 7 PM. Its a celebration as well of the UNESCO designation of Mexican Cuisine to the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage. If your in Mexico City don't miss it.

And not to forget the most important figure of Candelaria, the infant Jesus, who on this day receives new garments here is a chance to dress your own Nino .

Slow Food Laboratorio del Gusto

Las cocineras tradicionales de la Huasteca dicen que "La Huasteca llega donde hay zacahuil. Es el platillo huasteco por excelencia y, como el huapango, la expresión de cultura popular que identifica a la población de las seis huastecas".

En esta tradicional fiesta de la candelaria también se podrán degustar, Tamales de picadillo de camarón de Sinaloa, Tamales de Puerco de Nuevo León, Tamales de veracruzanos, así como uchepos y corundas michoacanas.

Durante el evento estarán presentes Gloria López Morales, presidenta del Conservatorio de la Cultura Gastronómica Mexicana; Alicia Gironella, presidenta del movimiento Slow Food México, el investigador José Iturrega y Sol Rubín de la Borbolla entre otras personalidades.

365 Projects - A Food Odyssey

2011-01-29T09:26:00.003-06:00

"365 Projects are simple, you take one photo every day for a year. It can be anything, something you've done, a self portrait, your shoes! Anything! "

And thats exactly what I've been doing for the past few weeks - posting a picture a day of my wanderings and meanderings through Mexico City's food world.

So here is my 365 Project - keep checking back often, follow me and see what your missing ....

Or better yet - find one of those super airline offers and come wander with me...

No snow except on the tops of the volcano, and we Chilango's ( by choice) think lows of 40 degrees are frigid and of course the midday highs are in the high 70 degree range.

Patricia Quintana of Izote restaurant and I at the Mercado San Juan - read more about our city
here - the Wall Street Journals Stan Sessers article on Mexico City - The World's Greatest Food City.

Diana Kennedy Spitfire/Charmer/ Queen of Mexican Cuisine Part II

2011-01-17T04:25:00.000-06:00

Thanks to Diana Kennedy for sharing this recent photo.

Her message attached to the photo which I most throughly agree with -

"just to show you I don't look like that
awful picture in the Washington Post photos."

So glad to see you obviously over the flu!

Diana Kennedy Spitfire/Charmer/ Queen of Mexican Cuisine

2011-01-13T17:16:00.001-06:00

Through the years the recognized authority and chronicler of Mexican Cuisine Diana Kennedy has been interviewed countless times. In fact when you Google search her name 259,00 results are returned in 0.08 seconds. Impressive.

And impressive she is when you meet, speak or take classes with Mrs. Kennedy who has had numerous recognitions from the Mexican government's Order of the Aztec Eagle to her native country's Member of the British Empire.

She has devoted herself to researching and recording Mexico's culinary heritage in at times less then hospitable circumstances, but nothing stops her from her exacting and precise research.

Her current book "Oaxaca al Gusto - An Infinite Gastronomy" published by the University of Texas Press as part of The William and Bettye Nowlin Series in Art, History, and Culture of the Western Hemisphere is for some the definitive book on Oaxaca to date.

As an author Mrs. Kennedy has given countless interviews but the interview conducted by William Booth of the Washington Post is as Mrs. Kennedy calls it "character assassination".

Here is Mrs. Kennedy's response to Mr. Booth:

Letter to: William Booth, Washington Post – Fiery Chronicler –11th January, 2011

After three arduous trips in the US to promote my book,

Oaxaca al Gusto, I was persuaded by a respected acquaintance, photographer Keith Dannemiller, to accept that you come to do an interview in my Mexican home. (It is not usual or correct to take your wife along to an interview without mentioning it

or asking if it is OK.) Yes, I was tired and mad. Trouble is I am too damned

frank.

This article smacks of character assassination (although I am not surprised,

The Washington Post had me dead abut 25 years ago and never had the

courtesy to apologize when they found out I was very much alive and

kicking.)

My helpers are always introduced to visitors (Ambassadors, scientists, even Prince Charles etc.) where were you? ..But then I see it is convenient to say so because you go on to insult one of my helpers by calling him a “serf”. They have been with me for many years and, as everyone who has been to my many classes knows, they are treated with respect and affection.

I object to “withering appraisal of competitors”, and “wrangling home cooks to

reveal etc”....those are rather nasty and untruthful interpretations! And what’s a “killer mole” for goodness sake!

You were, I thought, supposed to come and talk about the book and see how

I live in my Michoacan abode, but instead you repeat that silly, gossipy

book Arrugula USA about something that happened 32 years ago.

In the first place, I didn’t have a car so how could I have dumped him out???? A pure lie.

I also said how much I admired him as an exemplary restaurateur who sources ingredients locally, and takes his staff every 7th July weekend to a great gastronomic experience in Mexico. And yes, I make no secret of the fact that I thought the White House menu totally inappropriate, but I did add that many of the ideas came from a committee and not directly from Rick.

Why is it that everyone delights in trying to put a wedge in between Rick and me.!

And why the hell did you drink that coffee!

It will be very difficult, if not impossible, for another reporter to visit me and I will

quote your article as a reason why.

Saludos dk

From the New Oxford American Dictionary:
You can malign someone, which is to say or write something evil without necessarily lying.

Slow Food - Xoxoc - Semillas de Dioses Laboratorio

2010-12-09T09:27:00.001-06:00

With so many options to choose from this past weekend (including the VII Encuentro de Cocineras Tradicionales en Michoacan) it was not an easy decision on which stellar event to choose. The answer, how could I pass on a front row seat to a Barbacoa de hoyo from beginning, digging a deep pit - stoked with wood logs and lined with maguey leaves, to the end, digging it all up - unwrapping steaming maguey leaves and removing a whole "cabeza de res", that's a whole beef head......

Barbacoa de cabeza de res en la Ex Hacienda San José El Marquéz Santa María Amealco, Hidalgo

There will be more Laboratorios del Gusto sponsored by the Slow Food Conviviums of Mexico coming up, so keep checking for updates.

For this weekend Mercado el 100 will be offering a free Urban Agriculture workshop at Casa Francia

in the Zona Rosa.

And for those who don't know , this Sunday Dec. 12th is the celebration of the patron of Mexico the Virgen of Guadalupe . So be prepared as thousands upon thousands of the faithful make the pilgramage to her basilica at La Villa.

So begins the official

Guadalupe-Reyes Marathon

Enjoy the holidays!

Celebrate! UNESCO Intangible Patrimony and Traditional Mexican cuisine

2010-11-17T15:41:00.000-06:00

Mexico is about to throw some incredible over the top celebrations and YOU are invited. The reason, after many years ( 11 or so) and one dismal rejection UNESCO has declared "Traditional Mexican cuisine - ancestral, ongoing community culture, the Michoacán paradigm" as an Intangible Cultural Heritage!

According to the Intangible Heritage List, it recognises “practices, representations, and expressions, knowledge and skills which are transmitted from generation to generation and which provide communities and groups with a sense of identity and continuity.”

While "UNESCO is careful to define Intangible Heritage as “traditional and living at the same time,” and “constantly recreated,” and that formal recognition will help defend national cuisines under threat from globalisation and changing lifestyles."

Traditional mercado foods of Mexico City

So here are, as well, the three Mexican proposals that were accepted, with videos and slideshows, a lush and colorful mini lesson on Mexican food traditions, rituals and the culture behind it all.

Traditional Mexican cuisine - ancestral, ongoing community culture, the Michoacán paradigm

Pirekua, traditional song of the P’urhépecha

Parachicos in the traditional January feast of Chiapa de Corzo

Video in Spanish and English from the Conservatorio de la Cultura Gastronomico Mexicana which was the driving force in putting it all together.

As an addendum, when I researched this online the Google search engine came up with - "A search for USA news sources for UNESCO Recognition of Mexican cuisine as Intangible Patrimony did not get any results."

ENJOY!

Sunday morning at the Central de Abastos!

2010-11-14T12:16:00.002-06:00

Sunday morning in Mexico City is the perfect time to drive the empty city streets and get anywhere in no time at all. It's also the best time to go to the Central de Abastos, Latin Americas largest wholesale market which on any normal weekday would be a mob scene of epic proportion with the car route literally an avenue turned parking lot.

So at 7 AM I took my insulated bag and took the ride down Tlalpan and across the Eje 5 Sur, a total of 17 minutes, an incredible record. People arrive by car, public transportation and on foot to the section dedicated only to Seafood. Fried, grilled, roasted however you can, but get it here at the Central de Abastos.

Click here for the entire album.

Burro Hall - I Laughed Myself Silly!

2010-11-03T11:33:00.000-06:00

I don't normally write an entry post about a blog when I add it to my Favorite Blog List but today I had no choice but to do it. I had to share this with my own meager, but ever faithful, band of followers, and to them I say, click, tag, subscribe whatever you do but don't miss another day without Burro Hall!

And just when I thought it couldn't get any better the blog entry for today showed up....

http://burrohall.blogspot.com/2010/11/great-moments-in-mexican-genetic.html

I'll get back to you as soon as my convulsive laughter moment subsides.....

Events for Dia de Muertos - Mexico City

2010-11-01T09:16:00.001-06:00

So many events in so many places how to decide what to do? I can't seem to decide myself so here is a list of events that I'm considering to do today, tomorrow and over the course of this month!

La Secretaría de Cultura, el Centro Cultural Ollin Yoliztli y las 16 delegaciones presentan:

LA RUTA DE LOS MUERTOS

A Road map to all of the programs scheduled by the 16 delegations that make up Mexico City

del 28 de ocubre al 4 de noviembre de 2010

At the Museo de la Cuidad de Mexico the customs and traditions of the delegation of Tlahuac are represented by a traditional Ofrenda

La Catrina va en tranvía

Monday 1 November to Tuesday 30 November 2010 10:00 - 18:00 hr.

Never miss an event in the city again, just click on the link for the Secretaria de Cultura DF and select a date from the calendar in the upper right hand corner and see what's on or download the monthly Chilanguia magazine in PDF format.

Dia de Muertos in Xochimilco!

2010-10-30T20:29:00.002-05:00

Ofrenda, originally uploaded by ruthincondechi.

Dia de Muertos - Xochimilco started its preparations for Day of the Dead today Saturday Oct. 30.
With pan de muertos, ofrendas to revolutionary heros, papel picado, sweets, and so many flowers along the way - can't wait to get back on Monday Nov. 1 to see it all done!

More photos on Flickr.

DIANA KENNEDY AT RANCHO GORDO!

2010-10-25T21:05:00.000-05:00

Oh how I wish I were in California this Saturday at the Rancho Gordo event for Diana Kennedy the doyenne of Mexican Cuisine.

Diana whose cookbooks have for the past 40 odd years been the guide to Mexico, its foods and traditions has been touring for her new book Oaxaca al Gusto.

The book has already become a must have for any "Mexophile" and budding Mexican gourmand so don't miss this fabulous day with Diana and Steve Sando of Rancho Gordo - Saturday October 30th from 2 to 5 PM.

Rancho Gordo store located at:
1924 Yajome St (south of Lincoln)

ALEBRIJES MONUMENTALES and LUCHADORES!

2010-10-22T20:56:00.000-05:00

You will not want to miss tomorrow's parade of the Alebrijes scheduled to begin at noon.

In its fourth edition and sponsored by the Museo de Arte Popular this years theme is..... the Bicentenario.

With this as the theme the artisan and craftsman will be using the alebrijes to represent famous persons of the Independence and Revolutionary period.

From last years parade an alebrije titled La Urbe at the Zocalo
Photo by Thelmadatter

But wait why stop there, why only have Hidalgo, Morelos, Juarez, and the rest of Mexico's historic giants portrayed as alebrijes, lets have Luchadore as well!

So to see this magnificent display of artistic creativity and flamboyant /heroic luchadores be in the Centro Historic by noon Saturday Oct. 23, notwithstanding that the title is LA NOCHE de los Alebrijes.

The parade route has been modified as well - starting at 20 de Noviembre, then to 5 de Mayo, Juarez to Paseo de la Reforma and ending at the Angel de la Independencia.

And definitely bring your cameras!

Mercado el 100! Tianguis Ecologico

2010-10-20T06:47:00.003-05:00

INAUGURACIÓN DE MERCADO EL 100

Domingo 31 de Octubre de las 9:00 a las 14:00 hrs
Plaza Río de Janeiro, Colonia Roma Norte.

En Mercado el 100 podrás apreciar el sabor auténtico de los alimentos, cultivados de forma tradicional con prácticas ecológicas y sin ningún tipo de químicos tóxicos para la salud humana y la tierra: frutas y verduras de temporada, jitomate, nopal, granos, miel de abeja, mermeladas, salsas, huevosentre muchos otros productos.

Mercado el 100 congrega a alrededor de 15 pequeños productores de comunidades rurales alrededor del Valle de México que tendrán la oportunidad de vender al precio justo sus productos, sin intermediarios, lo que favorecerá la economía de estas familias campesinas.

Más que un simple mercado, Mercado el 100 ofrece un espacio de encuentro entre productores y consumidores, en el que tendrás también acceso gratuito a talleres de sensibilización sobre consumo responsable, cambio climático, agricultura urbana y más.

Juntos podemos construir una sociedad más justa y respetuosa del medioambiente

¡Haz tuyo este proyecto, ven y apóyanos a difundir esta iniciativa con todos tus contactos!

Day of the Dead / Dia de Muertos Mexico City

2010-10-18T08:06:00.004-05:00

As Mexico City starts to shake off some of its Bicentenary trappings the markets, museums, neighborhoods and towns start planning for Dia de Muertos. From the calaveras, catrinas y catrines as well as pan de muertos everyone is making plans and preparing their "ofrendas".

The cities restaurants, museums and local business join in as well so that wherever you look you'll be seeing MUERTOS...

So where will you be for Dia de Muertos, here some suggestions and pictures from last years events:

This year the city government has reinstated the Mega Ofrenda in the Zocalo which was usurped by the Mega X-mas tree of last year.... no further comment from me except for a resounding HURRAH! Our mayor Marcelo Ebrard will inaugurate the ofrenda "El arbol de la muerte florida" at 8 PM on Oct. 29.

The city will also be offering trolley car rides from the Palacio de Bellas Artes and around the Centro Historico with the theme "La Catrina va en tranvia"..

The Universidad del Claustro de Sor Juana in the Centro Historico follows its annual tradition of its ofrenda to Sor Juana Ines de la Cruz known in Mexico as the tenth Muse because of her poems and prolific writings, highly unusual for a woman of the 17th century, let alone a cloistered nun. Beginning at 5:30 PM (or thereabouts..) on Oct. 28th til Nov. 14th.

The majority of the city museums will also mount their own ofrendas many with special themes:

The Museo Dolores Olmedo always uses items from its collection of artisan crafts and highlighting the patroness of the museum Dolores Olmedo in its ofrenda. This years theme "Independencia y Revolucion" begins on oct. 26th and runs till Jan. 9, 2011.

The Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares in Coyoacan has special activities besides its ofrendas in the Patio Moctezuma. This year the museum celebrates the VII anniversary of the UNESCO's proclamation of Dia de Muertos as an Intangible Patrimony of Humanity in the Quinta Maragarita Patio.

Best to call the museum directly for more information.

And in Xochimilco right now two different spectacles on the canals :

The first is "La Llorona - de la Conquista al Bicentenario" the pre- conquest legend of the goddess Cihuacoatl mourning the loss of her "children", the indigenous peoples of Mexico. A similar theatre piece will also be performed in Chapultepec Park. For both venues Tickets available on Ticket Master Mexico.

The second offering through the canals of Xochimilco is "Retorno al Mictlan - a los muertos se les siembra" from the embarcadero Fernando Celada in the center of Xochimilco. A trip in music and dance to the underworld of Mictlan, the real world of the spirit.

And where to buy your Cempasuchitl flowers? At the Feria de la Flor de Cempasuchitl - Mercado de Plantas San Luis in Xochimilco of course!

Next - where will you be buying your Pan de Muertos??

Ready for Dia de Muertos ...

2010-10-11T10:13:00.000-05:00

Feria del Mole

2010-10-11T08:57:00.003-05:00

Run don't walk to October's most famous gastronomic event the Feria del Mole at San Pedro Atocpan, Delegacion Milpa Alta. Only two more weekends are left, ends Oct. 24th, to make the trek south past Xochimilco by taking the Federal highway Xochimilco - Oaxtepec to Km. 17.5.

The feria warrants a full day outing with temporary restaurants, 28 in all, serving the diverse and luscious types of mole produced here. From the basic mole, to almendrado, de piñones, verde, rojo, negro .... the list goes on, with rabbit, pork and the classic guajolote. But of course there's more to the fair with cultural events, music, dancing traditional artisanal crafts on view as well as the famous moles to take home as well as cheeses, breads, cecina and chorizos of the area on offer as well.

So don't get lost, click here for directions, in Spanish, on how to get to Milpa Alta by auto or public transportation.

YoYo master in Parque Mexico!

2010-09-29T09:08:00.002-05:00

Bicentenario 2010 Mexico City

2010-09-25T11:46:00.003-05:00

TEST

Congreso Guillermo Rios !

2010-09-24T09:44:00.026-05:00

Congreso Guillermo Rios !, originally uploaded by ruthincondechi.

With a formal ribbon ceremony and a full military escort the Congreso
Guillermo Rios, the first International Gastronomic congress hosted by
Grupo Ambrosia, started with a bang and a rousing rendition of the
Mexican national anthem.

A list of national and international culinary luminaries were the
featured players along with the three day's worth of seminars,
demonstrations, wine salon, specialty gourmet "mercado", and much back
slapping and cheek kissing ( one cheek -Mexican, two cheeks -
definitely European, handshake - whatever).

Here some of the best moments of those days..

Patricia Quintana quietly roasting chiles...

. with Chef Federico Lopez of Cancun asking Chef Enrique Olvera about
the dish being prepared in his own inimitable manner.

and a trip to Oaxaca with Reina Mendoza showing how to grind cacao to
make "chocolate caliente".... aromas to make you want to jump up and
grab the metate and start grinding away!

Then what to finish the first day up with - FIESTA and who better to
party with then a roomful of chefs... and their helpers!

ooops did someone get left out of the picture...

a rousing great Mexican Fiesta!

hotographs courtesy of Richard Verdoni.

GOOD EATS CAPITAL

2010-09-23T09:38:00.001-05:00

Click on photo to view album!

GOOD EATS CAPITAL!

2010-09-13T08:22:00.003-05:00

JULY 23 - no way - has it really been this long since I last posted! How can I explain except to say that between my life, now as a "Mom" to my 16 year old grand daughter who found she LOVES Mexico, and the infinite number of gastronomic events that took place I haven't had a minute to post...

But I can post some pics of the incredible food that was considered, discussed, dissected, prepared, and in some cases actually consumed/devoured.

And I promise that in the next few days and weeks more complete details will follow, before their "expire by date" comes round!

MEXICAN CUISINE PATRIMONY OF HUMANITY

2010-07-24T23:05:00.003-05:00

YESTERDAY, FRIDAY JULY 23, IN BOGOTA COLUMBIA GLORIA LOPEZ MORALES UNEXPECTEDLY MADE THE UNOFFICIAL ANNOUNCEMENT THAT MICHOACAN MEXICO HAD ACHIEVED THE FIRST EVER DESIGNATION FOR ITS GASTRONOMIC CULTURE AS INTANGIBLE PATRIMONY OF HUMANITY!

AS HEAD OF THE CONSERVATORIA DE LA CULTURA GASTRONOMIA MEXICAN GLORIA LOPEZ MORALES HAS WORKED FOR 10 YEARS ON THE PROPOSAL ALONGSIDE SOME OF MEXICO'S MOST RECOGNIZED CULINARY AND ACADEMIC FIGURES SUCH AS ALICIA GIRONELLA DE'ANGELI OF EL TAJIN RESTAURANT AND CULTURA CULINARIA, DR. LUIS VARGAS OF THE UNAM, CRISTINA PALACIOS ALSO OF CULTURA CULINARIA, JOSE ITURRIAGA FOREMOST AUTHOR, GENOVEVO FIGUERO FORMER GOVERNOR AND SEC. OF TOURISM FOR MICHOACAN AND SCORES OF SUPPORTERS.

CONGRATULATIONS MEXICO!

READ A REPORT OF THE ANNOUNCEMENT HERE

http://www.cronica.com.mx/nota.php?id_nota=520868

Eat and Travel Hong Kong Part II

2010-07-16T03:32:00.009-05:00

Part II of my first day with Michael, real name Lui Ka Chun, and Fung, and I hope I have that right, was beginning to develop into a bonding experience with food, good food in any of its interpretations, as the crux.

Michael at 29 is a well seasoned traveler and had that "boundless" energy you hear so much about while Fung took a snooze nap on the way to the next food adventure. Taking the "quick" route, definitely a Mexican oxymoron, we were in Del. Azcapotzalco in a Mexican minute....

Cuitlahuac - or .Cuitla. – .n. cuitlatl - excrement, residue, or a growth. (.A. - n. atl - water)

Our destination, the original El Bajio restaurant on Av. Cuitlahuac and one of the many tiled murals that explain the Nahuatl meaning of street names. Cuitlahuac though is a difficult name to explain until you remember that cuitlatl, was often linked to precious items:-

Teotl (god/divinity) + Cuitlatl = Teocuitlatl (gold).

We were promply taken in hand by Sandra the senior Mayora and no amount of "please no more" could stop the doting Sandra from sending yet after another "platito pequeno" . Thank goodness that by asking for the dessert menu we were able to get Sandra from behind the "cocina" for a picture opportunity with the "muchachos".

One of the best things about being on Av. Cuitlahuac is that it gave us an opportunity to visit with Chef Gerardo Vazquez Lugo of Nico's restaurant and La Nicolas Tienda fame.

Chef Gerardo, Slow Food Convivium leader and tireless defender of Mexican gastronomy gave us a tour of La Nicolasa where Michael's request for a habanero tasting left both the chef and his assistant amazed at his reaction, "good but do you have anything hotter" !

With new found admiration Chef Gerardo invited us to join him at the roof top garden above Nico's restaurant for an agua fresca de Jamaica and a tour. Two hours later Michael and Fung were ready to try the metate y mano and experience how the prehispanic people were able to grind seeds, nuts and chocolate into fine pastes. Suffice it to say that a good time was had by all but most especially the mayora giving the lesson....

A Day with Eat and Travel Magazine in Mexico City

2010-07-14T23:08:00.010-05:00

I never know what to expect when I receive a "food tour" request that comes on very short notice. What to do, accept or not with only two days to prepare ...... then I looked again at the address, Hong Kong and a travel reporter interested in the food culture of Mexico. Did he know about Mexico's proposal to UNESCO to be added to the list of Intangible Cultural Patrimony? Had the news traveled that far?

It seemed that the only way to learn more was to agree, and so today I traveled to the Centro Historico and met with Michael and Fung, reporter and photographer of Hong Kong's Eat and Travel magazine.

Establishing the fact that they had not a clue about UNESCO proposal and what I was talking about it was my duty to have them experience Mexican "food culture". With only 4 hours to show them the culinary delights and provide explanations I set a brisk pace and started for Calle Palmas and Cinco de Mayo. This area so rich in history, legends and scandals is one large potpourri of food delights. From El Cardenal to Jugos Canada and the forever opened, 24 hours 365 days a year Cafe El Popular we had already covered 2 of our 4 hours.

At El Popular an almond cookie caught Michael's eye, as he stared 3rd generation owner Jose Luis Eng made sure that there was a cookie for him as we left. For Michael it was a madeleine moment as he bit into the soft and savory almond cookie.

Keep up with the rest of the "tour" next blog post!

WORLD CUP FEVER!

2010-07-11T18:13:00.008-05:00

AND THE SUN SHONE AT THE TIME OF THE WIN....

The headline reads "Iniesta puts Spain on Top of the World" !

FIFA 2010 fever has had Mexico City heads over heels for the past 7 weeks and even though I am not a sports fan ( I did live just 1 block from the Estadio Azteca , that has to count for something) I was totally unprepared for all of the strange happenings.

Strange happening No.1 the American School of Mexico City cancelled its second day of exams on Friday June 11 because of the game, strange happening No.2 the city government warned Mexico City residents for Mexico's final game NOT TO block the Angel on Av. Reforma IF Mexico lost ( Mexico lost) and that was probably the first time there was NO traffic on major roadways, strange happening No.3 the major heated discussions on whether or not to support Spain over Holland for today's match was on every Facebook, Twitter and blog I looked at!

At which point I gave up and took refuge by going to the noon performance of the Ciclo Gustav Mahler I by the Orquesta Sinfonica de Minera at the Cultural Center in CU. I still couldn't get away from the game though. Cafe Azul y Oro's terrace staff were to the man, including two customers, glued to the set. I must admit that the ride from Condesa to CU took 15 minutes and ditto for the return trip, it looked like Christmas Day.

But when Spain won even my 8th floor roost was no defense for the mad screaming, yelling, howling that went up for Spain's first ever win of the World Cup. So for the last 2 hours everyone is partying, except me, and I can't wait for the Film and art channel to start Doc Martin!

And by the way what do you think of "El Pulpo Paul" that oracle of winners ? I will admit to liking him much more then I should, perhaps with garlic and olive oil done on the plancha!

Mexico Cocina Abierto 2010

2010-07-07T16:46:00.000-05:00

the 1st International Congress of Mexican Cuisine begun with a bang and a champagne toast!

With the theme of "Culinary Bridge with Spain"

Mexico's leading trendsetting chefs, alongside international celebrities of the kitchen cooked, lectured, participated in round tables and found time to shake hands and pose for pictures.

Ricardo Munoz Zurita surrounded by a few of the participating chefs.

The new and very stylish St.Regis Hotel, with F&B executive director Enrique Farjeat serving as host, was the setting for the inaugural conference of Ricardo Muñoz Zurita (Azul y Oro, México DF) .

Ricardo, who was named by TIME Magazine as “a prophet and preserver of the Mexican culinary tradition" shared his years of investigation and scholarship by speaking to the topic

"From the Prehispanic kitchen to the Present: ingredients and techniques"

Eduardo Plascencia , well known journalist and gastronome serving as host and moderator.
Chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca and Chef Alex Atala of D.O.M. restaurant in Brasil become part of the audience at one of the demonstrations.

Chef Alex Atala with Chef Enrique Olvera of Pujol restaurant and me!

Judges at a "food duel", Chef Federico Lopez of Taller Gourmet of Cancun in black cap.

The conference itself was held on the campus of the Universidad Anáhuac

and hosted by Le Cordon Bleu Mexico, where
the following three days where filled with constant activity from 9 AM to 9 PM. Here just a few of the participants on Day 1......

Start the day with a composed salad of gusanos and flowers, typical of the prehispanic diet.

Chef Diego Oka of La Mar Cebicheria traveled from Bogota Columbia to attend the congress alongside Mexico City photographer Vivian Bibliowicz

The great women of Mexican cuisine Carmen Ramirez Degollado of El Bajio restaurant and Margarita Carrillo de Salinas of Don Emiliano restaurant in San Jose de los Cabos

Chef Aquiles Chavez of restaurant Ló and TV program El Toque de Aquiles.

Chef Daniel Ovadia of award winning restaurants Paxia and Charro flaming his seafood dish.

Aromas y Sabores Mexico City with Patricia Quintana

2010-06-24T06:19:00.000-05:00

Patricia Quintana, the always charming and delightful chef and teacher has taken on a new role. As Mexico's official Cuisine Ambassadress Patricia is serving as official tour guide to groups of journalist, media personalities, chefs and other culinary figures on explorations of Mexico's gastronomic delights.

Starting at the Condesa D.F. Hotel, meeting place for Mexico's young and trendy set, the delightful blend of Monica Patino's freshly baked french style pastries from Delirio, freshly squeezed juices and platters of tropical fruits, with the hotel's traditional Mexican offerings of Huevos Rancheros, Chicarron en Salsa Verde and even more being served, we were ready for the morning tour.

The meet and greet breakfast had also turned up some old friends, Betty Fussell and Maricel Presilla , award winning book authors. Betty's "The Story of Corn" a classic, and Maricel's

"The New Taste of Chocolate" ,both with strong Mexican connections, made of them intrepid researchers willing to endure the rigors of this arduous investigation.

The group of erstwhile "tourists" was then bundled into the waiting buses for the short ride to one of the city's emblematic symbols of its history, Chapultepec Castle. Formally known as the Museo Nacional de Historia we were taken up the same hill that was home to the Pre-Hispanic Mexican emperors, military college where the "Ninos Heroes" gallantly lost their lives to an American invasion force, royal residence of the Emperor Maximilian and Carlotta and official Mexican presidential residence.

Feeling that after the strenuous task of strolling the halls and garden while listening to particularly juicy historical tidbits ( the ever constant President, Porfirio Diaz married 17 or 19 year old Carmen Romero Rubio there) we were definitely in need of an "almuerzo".

So off again to the buses and a 10 minute ride to Los Panchos, a taqueria that has been serving tacos and other antojitos for about 70 years. Good wasn't the word, light snacking....... well maybe Mexico City style, as evidenced by the media people at our table obviously having a very good time playing with their food!

Back on the buses for that 10 minute ride to the Museo Nacional de Antropologia where docents led us through Mexico's amazing cultural development. Two hours later, and having only seen a few of its dozen halls, it was time for COMIDA!

Yes, lest we forget what this trip was really all about the dining time known as comida had come upon us. What to do with 100 odd "foodies" at this all important meal of the day? The answer divide them into groups of 12 and send them off to the best restaurants the city has to offer of course.

I'll have to report on this on the next post but let it suffice to say that this was only half of our FIRST day and we still had another 6 hours left!

Project Explorer in Mexico City

2010-06-06T09:55:00.012-05:00

To provide a global cultural experience through film and multimedia materials aimed at fostering the next generation of global citizens this is Project Explorer.

When Jenny Buccos, founder and director of Project Explorer, contacted me in March of this year I immediately went to the web site to see what it was all about. She couldn't have known that in a small way I too was fostering a "global citizen". Since July 2009 my New Jersey born granddaughter has been experiencing Mexico up close and personal. With each new day, new friends, and new places I see her perspective on what makes up her "world" widening and welcoming the diversity that makes Mexico so unique.

Such travel opportunities for the average American child are virtually non-existent. In a world that is still subject to military actions the necessity for greater mutual understanding becomes imperative and what better way then in a program of the quality that is Project Explorer.

Jenny Buccos founded Project Explorer using her love of travel as a way to educate young people by presenting compelling stories of the world’s cultures, histories, and people. Her goal was, and is, to educate, inspire, and inform. Jenny and her team do all that and more. Here in Mexico City her request for a chef who might have time and an "easy" recipe lead me to ask Chef Enrique Olvera of Pujol restaurant to be the chef with the easy recipe. Enrique whose prestige grew with his placing 72 on the S. Pelligrino World's best restaurant list celebrated his 10th anniversary with a star studded cast of invited chefs including Chef Rene Redzepi of Noma, the No. 1 restaurant of the world!

Here's what team member Vijaya Selvaraju learned about PIE!

And if the concept of global citizenship is one you already embrace then here you can see and hear Anthony Bourdain, Marcus Samuelsson, Eric Ripert and many other budding "global citizens" share their point of view.

Take a look and then consider donating to Project Explorer the world is our children, their future our responsibility.

Martha Ortiz and Dulce Patria

2010-05-30T06:20:00.010-05:00

Martha Ortiz , the Mexican Divine Ms. M, has after 3 years of rumors, speculation and mysterious sightings surfaced again! After the abrupt closing of her now legendary Aguila y Sol restaurant Martha has as part of Patricia Quintanas "Aromas y Sabores" culinary tour started previews of her newest restaurant creation Dulce Patria.

Using Mexican motifs, traditional colors and stunning presentations she previewed several of the dished that will be featured on the menu. From the hand blown Mexican glasses filled with Raspado de Mezcal to baskets brimming with traditional Mexican breads and stark black platters with dulces Mexicanos Martha proved that the spectacular playfulness that she has always employed is still as amusing and appealing as ever.

The highlight of the afternoon was watching Martha, dressed as always in black, prepare a salad of arugla and cabuche with a morita infused peanut vinegrette.

Las Alcobas boutique hotel in Polanco will be Dulce Patria's new address. Described as a "cantina" style restaurant with seating for 80 people it will be the first of two restaurants that Martha has designed. Even more exciting is the news that Dulce Patria's opening will be followed with Barrocco a 50 seat "high end restaurant".

WELCOME BACK MARTHA!

Mexico City Culinary Capital

2010-05-17T08:22:00.004-05:00

The next four weeks are chock a block with culinary events ranging from a gastronomic festival on Av. Reforma to a celebration of Biodiversity at the UNAM University City campus and Mexico's largest Culinary trade show. So grab your calendars and start deciding where to go.

1. From 15 - 20 May http://festivaldearteculinario.com/site/

2. May 21 - 23 at the UNAM http://www.milpa.unam.mx/

3. Viaje de prensa Aromes y Sabores de Patty Quintana 29 mayo a 10 junio.4.

4.Mexico Cordon Bleu is host at the Universidad Anahuac from June 2- 5 of the largest gathering of chefs, including the internationally known Albert Adria.

http://www.mexicocinabierta.com.mx/evento/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71&Itemid=865.

5. And to close off Mexico City's largest trade show Expo Alimentaria Mexico June 1-3, which serves as host to 5º CONGRESO MEXICANO DE GASTRONOMÍA

http://www.alimentaria-mexico.com/

World Vision Report - Edible Flowers of Mexico

2010-05-10T16:31:00.005-05:00

Listen to me and Nick Gilman as we help Mary Stucky of World Vision radio learn about the edible flowers of Mexico.

"As Mary Stucky reports, Mexicans have been cooking with flowers for centuries. In the United States, it's traditional to put a bouquet of flowers on the dinner table, not on the dinner plate. In Mexico, however, you're almost as likely to find flowers in the food as on the table."

World Vision Report - Week of April 10, 2010 - Flowers

Feliz Dia de la Madre /Happy Mother's Day!

2010-05-10T07:16:00.005-05:00

Today May 10 is the official Mother's day celebration here in Mexico. This, not withstanding that the whole weekend has seen its share of booked to capacity restaurants, last minute wholesale flower purchasing and more perfume samplers being waved about as you walk through any department store!

Dizzying to say the least. But here in honor of the mothers of Mexico a portrait gallery of them in art, at work, and at rest!

Mextlapique or Tamale?

2010-04-29T07:35:00.009-05:00

My favorite culinary tour to give is to the mercado of Xochimilco, one of several mercados that still have puestos that feature the Mextlapique, a non-masa tamal.

This millenial dish is found here in what once were the lake regions of the valley of Mexico. The lake has disappeared but the Mextlapique of charrales, a.k.a. minnows can be found along with the tlapique of frog legs which is quickly disappearing since it is expensive, $70 pesos per tamal, and dwindling demand.

If you want to taste these tamals, along with whole chili carp roasted, huevera de lisa (fish roe packed cheese like in leaves), or any other of these pre-hispanic dishes then we're off to Xochimilco.

Huitlacoche / corn smut !

2010-04-29T07:06:00.005-05:00

For the sake of clarity lets see the definition of "smut" before we go on to huitlacoche , the ultimate in smut.
smut |smət|
noun
1 a small flake of soot or other dirt.

2 a fungal disease of grains in which parts of the ear change to black powder. • The fungi belong to Ustilago and other genera, order Ustilaginales, class Teliomycetes.

Now you know what "smut" is but do you recognize the culinary beauty of huitlacoche or cuitlacoche, an indigenous Nahuatl word whose translation leaves many with no desire to taste this etheral food.

The tide seems to be changing starting in 1989 when the James Beard Foundation hosted an all huitlacoche dinner and touted it as the Mexican Truffle. Yet this attempt to take huitlacoche mainstream didn't do very much to change diners preception of this millenial food.

Recently Pultizer prize winning journalist Martha Mendoza has opened a new discusion on huitlacoche. Her article " Corn Smut? Tastes Great and Good for You, Too!"
is subtitled "Study finds gnarly little corn fungus long-savored by Mexicans is packed with nutrients".
Could this mean the beginning of the end for the long held perjuidices of non-Mexican"foodies" to huitlacoche. This could still be difficult since for decades farmers and the American government have spent time, money and great effort to eradicate what is considered an infectious plague.

For now though the best areas to taste huitlacoche is still in home territory, especially in Xochimilco where the traditions of the past are very much alive and thriving.

Here a closer look at huitlacoche from my prespective as a chef.

Los Volcanes Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl

2010-04-29T07:04:00.000-05:00

You never know when the smog will clear and Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl will be visible in what is a moment of glory!

Then the majesty of the Valle de Mexico becomes apparent and awe inspiring,

and you become able to understand how the legends and stories of gods, goddesses,

heroes and heroines of Pre-hispanic Mexico were as real as those towering peaks

dressed in snowy whiteness...

Here from the second floor of the Periferico at mid day just a few weeks ago.

Sunday Stroll Colonia Roma

2010-04-19T07:52:00.008-05:00

Its becoming a habit, and a very enjoyable one, Sunday strolling through Colonia Roma. You never know what you'll see, from ducks in storefronts, to mobile art galleries, graffiti everywhere, strange store signs, and an occasional street festival!

Yesterday was a banner day for all of these and rather then "wax eloquent" I'll let the photo's tell their own story!

Of course the jacarandas are in full bloom, the weather perfect and the people incredibly charming, dancing, singing and all in all having a perfect Sunday.

La Condesa y La Roma en domingo

2010-01-25T12:54:00.009-06:00

Hello again to all who wondered "where is Ruth, is she still in Condechi?"

Yes I'm still here, albeit a little battle scarred, one fall ( as I warned my companion "watch out for the steppppp.....) and one other emergency room visit.....

So after this I have to be golden for the rest of the year!

I thought this time we'd take a walk through my neighborhood and see what I see when I stroll, no prat falls either.

La Tamalada y Candelaria!

2010-01-25T11:06:00.003-06:00

Tradition and festivals, two things that are ever present in the daily life of Mexico.

They combine the culture and religion of the pre-Hispanic people and that of the Spanish conquerers to create an aura sometimes of gaiety, melancholy or solemnity.

But whatever the mood there is always a ritual food to accompany and none so famous as Tamales and the feast of Candelaria. The preparation for this day begins on Jan.6 with the Rosca de Reyes and the suspense as to who will find the baby Jesus figure in the Rosca, for that person will be responsible for providing the tamales on Candelaria February 2. This marks, for Catholics, the presentation of the child Jesus at the temple and is the mid-way point between the winter solstice and the spring equinox, a time to prepare the earth for the spring planting.

Here in the mercados of Mexico City you will see stands that specialize in the repair and dressing of the Jesus figures, many of them family treasures passed on generation to generation.

But of course its the tamales that are the most important, and a food that can be enjoyed at any time of the year. Here Nick Gilman, author of Good Food in Mexico City, and Jim Johnston, author of Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide, get their tamale fix at the Tuesday Tianguis in Condesa.

And for those of you in Mexcio City we invite you to the Slow Food Tamalada to be held this Thursday evening, Jan. 28 - 7 PM, at the Fonda San Angel Plaza San Jacinto #3 in San Angel. Featuring tamales from the state of Chiapas it will be an opportunity to sample the little known tamales of this region.

To make reservations please call 5550-1641 or 5550-1942. The tickets for this event will be $200 pesos for Slow Food members or $250 pesos for non-members. Of course you can also become a member via the Slow Food website.

Buen Provecho to all!

Divina Cucina in Mexico

2009-12-06T10:20:00.006-06:00

Good friend and charismatic cooking diva Judy Witts Francicni is crossing the Atlantic for Mexico and bringing all her secrets with her. Following in Chris Columbus's footsteps she's bringing back some of the ingredients that Mexico gifted Italy with the Italian prespective of preparation.

Rancho Casa Luna will be the setting for this inspiring culinary adventure with three kitchens, terrace and view to die for,

Judy will teach, guide and share her tricks of the trade with us.

What could be better then a week in San Miguel Allende where the weather is always perfect and the people enchantingly attractive.

For reservations go to Rancho Casa Luna's web site and for details on the week long Italian orgy, didn't the Romans coin the word, to Judy's Divina Cucina blog's.

Feliz Navidad , Feliz Navidad

2009-12-05T10:48:00.004-06:00

Feliz Navidad, Feliz Navidad sung by Jose Feliciano seems appropriate for viewing the Christmas Tree on Av. Reforma that has finally reached completion. Did it accomplish its mission of being the tallest Christmas tree in the world, no word from the Guinness Book of World records yet.

I can say that it certainly is BIG and manages to block the view of the Angel. Perhaps its charm can be appreciated when its dark and its metal "ornaments" are lighted, I haven't yet had that privilege.

Whatever it invokes in you, here are the finishing touches, a hand to hand effort by workmen from the ground up.

Monumental Tree

2009-11-23T15:22:00.003-06:00

This seems to be the year that Mexico tries and breaks the silliest Guinness World Records. I've witnessed two of the events, first one with making the world's largest Torta and the other gathering a record breaking number of people to dance Thriller in honor of Michael Jackson.

Now for the world's largest Christmas Tree, but a tree made of steel wires and decorations, rising slowly on Ave. Reforma. I say slowly since we first saw and wondered in September what the barricades were all about. Well here we are almost about to have Thanksgiving in Mexico and the tree is still only 40% ready.

We'll keep you up to date with pictures of the progress and hopefully an inaugration date very soon.

National Strike/Paro Civico Nacional!

2009-11-10T18:52:00.002-06:00

OJO! as my good friends here in the Distrito Federal would say. Tomorrow Wednesday November 11 all bets are off on travel in or out of the city with the center of the city paralyzed with demonstrations.

The Electrical Workers Union has called for a "Paro Civico Nacional" or National Strike. I'm not sure what other cities may have in store but here in Mexico City it seems like major caos from 7 AM until 9 PM.
El Universal has various reports, including hour by hour details of major traffic disruptions and marches.
The most severe begins at 7 AM as a "paso de tortuga" or snails pace, with the 5 major highway accesses to the city blocked.
Marches begin at noon from several points of the city with destination to Los Pinos, the Presidential Palace.
At 3 PM until 5 PM women from different unions will begin marching from Glorieta Insurgents to the Zocalo.

The general public has also been asked to show solidarity with the strikers by turning off their lights from 7:30 PM till 9:30 PM.

So friends, take your precautions and enjoy the day!

Dia de Muertos Zocalo Mexico City CANCELLED!

2009-10-27T07:19:00.011-06:00

Another blow has been dealt to Mexico City by the cancellation of the Monumental Ofrendas in the Zocalo. A tradition for the last ten years that has provided millions with an opportunity to view ofrendas from different regions, from artists perspectives and by the city government has been cancelled this year because of the economic crisis.

But never fear many other institutions and private enterprises provide opportunities for viewing Dia de Muertos altars and offerings.

First on my list, with these pictures as a tease, El Bajio restaurant of Avenida Cuitlahuac #2709 in Azcapotzalco. Enjoy a delicious "comida" surrounded by Catrinas, Muertos, ofrendas

and paintings by famous artists, part of owners Carmen Ramirez Degollados collection. Don't forget to order tamales and hot chocolate, you might even have them served by Titita herself!

If you've never been to the Universidad Claustro de Sor Juana, or don't even know who Sor Juana Ines de la Cruz was, mark Friday October 30 on your calender. On this evening, the opening night for the monumental ofrenda in the Capilla is inaugurated and free hot chocolate and tamales are given out. As with so many other very popular events not all details are available so you might want to give the Claustro a call at 5130-3300. As of this moment the days of Nov. 1 and 2 will be open to the public with admission beginning at 7 AM.

More information at :

Izazaga 92, Centro Histórico, C.P. 06080, México D.F. / Teléfonos: 51 30 33 00

A must on the list is of course the Museo Dolores Olmedo in Xochimilco. The museum uses parts of its artisan handcraft collection to mount the altars along with cempasúchil (marigold) flowers, and will also be sponsoring a Concurso Catrina on Nov. 1. The complete program for both Sunday and Monday can be found here under Fiesta Dia de Muertos.

And if your in Coyoacan the Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares will have its ofrendas from October 24 to November 8. This year the title for the ofrendas is Jornada de Dia de Muertos.

And of course the Museo Frida Kahlo on Londres 247 in Coyoacan , tel. 5554-5999, will also present its outdoor ofrenda in the garden.

At the Museo del Carmen located on Av. Revolucion #4/6 in San Angel the ofrenda will be part of the museum entrance fee. A Carmelite convent, with its own underground chapel, you can find mummies of religious members and wealthy patrons that were buried there. Don't miss the section of small paintings and photographs of the "monjas coronadas".

Day of the Dead -- Dia de Muertos

2009-10-02T17:10:00.013-05:00

Mexico City is getting ready for Day of the Dead, are you?
November isn't far off and the preparation for ofrendas, loaded with food and drink is underway everywhere so that the city will be ready to welcome the dead.
The tradition of Dia de Muertos is of course a melding of two cultures, the pre-hispanic and the Spanish/Catholic traditions, with remembrance and celebration rather then mourning as the focal point. On Nov. 1 the souls of little children are welcomed and then on Nov.2, All Souls Day, adults.

From the Zocalo to the lowliest puestos ofrendas from monumental to miniature will be on display. So don't miss out at the Zocalo, the Claustro de Sor Juana, the Dolores Olmedo Museum, the Jamaica Market, La Ideal Pasteleria and everywhere you look!

Mexico City in October

2009-10-02T10:52:00.008-05:00

Hard as I try, sometimes I just can't keep up! But here I am again, trying to keep you up to date with happenings in the D.F.

Things to definitely watch out for and plan on going soon, they aren't around for long:

Chefs al Rescate -- A one day only opportunity to have the best dishes from the best of the city's top chefs and help raise money for a worthwhile cause, indigenous artisan women.
Top chefs include Mikel Alonso of Biko, Carmen Ramirez de Gollado of El Bajio, Patricia Quintana of Izote, Margarita Carrillo de Salinas of Don Emiliano B.C., and Jose Ramon Castillo of Que Bo fame, amongst several others.
This gastronomic fest will take place on Sunday October 25, 1 PM, at Universidad Anahuac Sur. Tickets available by calling 8589-5544 or by e-mail at rp@queremoscomer.com.
100 % of the ticket sales go directly to the project.
Pictures from last years event include the giant chocolate sculpture that was raffled off (keep your entrance tickets), Nicolas Gilman of Good Food in Mexico City with journalist Magaly Reina taking notes and cleaning his plate, plus weavers and their crafts, bring cash!

Next on the agenda, month long celebrations:
At Cafe Azul y Oro, Chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita, tempts us south to the campus of the UNAM for his Langosta del Caribe festival. Ricardo whose dishes are mouth wateringly good ( "se me hace agua la boca!") does it again. Throughtout the year his regional food festivals are enough to get me on the Metrobus and spend the afternoon on the Centro Cultural campus but this has got to be the best of the best!

Now, what's your favorite Mole dish? Can you ever try as many Moles as there are in the republic, well here's your chance. The month long Feria del Mole in San Pedro Atocpan, Milpa Alta is going strong after some 40 odd years and here's your opportunity to taste Moles of every description! Bring an appetite and come early, the ride to Milpa Alta can be agonizingly long on weekends. Under "Rutas" on the web site detailed maps on how to get to the Fair.


	Carretera Xochimilco Oaxtepec km 17 ½, San Pedro Atocpan, Del. Milpa Alta, México, D.F. C.P. 12200.

El Grito de Dolores!

2009-09-10T07:13:00.008-05:00

Are you ready for Mexican Independence Day?
If your Mexican where ever you are in the world this is the month, El Mes de la Patria, and Septemebr 15/16 the night no one sleeps.
With the flag and its colors, green, white and red, prominently displayed everywhere, from buildings to cars to windows to clothing and even jewelery the euphoria is contagious.
Chiles en Nogada, specific to this season, are also symbolic of the flag, the green of the chile poblano, the white of the "nogada", and the red of the pomegranate seeds, que delicia!

Are you ready then, Chiles en Nogada, the Mexican flag and the National anthem are essential and here some tips so you'll be prepared.

In the USA try Zarela Martinez's version of Chiles en Nogada.
For the words to the Mexican national anthem and some history go to Wikipedia.
Last but not least you can listen to the Anthem here.

See you in the Zocalo on Tuesday September 15 and remember, Que Viva Mexico!

The Bon Appétit Awards 2009

2009-09-02T12:34:00.008-05:00

Congratulations to Steve Sando the Bean King!

Steve has worked tirelessly for years to bring this much neglected but significant food to the tables of America and his efforts are showing results.

Here from the "Hot 10 of 2009" what Bon Appetit says about Steve:

Steve Sando of Rancho Gordo, for his commitment to the preservation of rare and heirloom beans. Bats and wolves aren't the only endangered species in America. A search for disappearing native food ingredients led Rancho Gordo founder Steve Sando to sow his own seeds for heirloom beans and tomatoes. Soon Thomas Keller was scooping up rare varieties of legumes from Sando's stand at a Napa Valley farmers' market to serve at his restaurants Per Se and The French Laundry. But unlike pricey, rarefied ingredients accessible only to top chefs, beans have long been the people's protein. Rancho Gordo's colorful varieties, like the black-and-white-spotted Vaquero bean and the zebra-striped San Franciscano, have turned the humble bean into a haute pantry staple. And at approximately 50 cents a serving, this is a luxury almost anyone can afford.

And for those whose bean knowledge is a bit lacking Steve wrote the book, available on Amazon.com:

Heirloom Beans

Thrill The World: Mexico City

2009-08-30T10:57:00.010-05:00

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As a tribute to Michael Jackson, 12,937 fans registered for this year's Thrill The World event. Although there were only about 13 thousand who registered, around 50,000 people actually showed up. The video above was taken about an hour after the dance. This year's Thriller event took place at the Monumento a la Revolucion, where hundreds of these "zombies" gathered.

Report and video by Esperanza Alegria.

N.B. as Jon Wanzer has pointed out the tribute to Michael Jackson was NOT the "Thrill World" event which is scheduled for Mexico City on Oct. 24. The organizers of the Thriller dance event at the Monumento a la Revolucion were Carlos Contreras joined by Jackson impersonator Hector Jackson. The city government of the Distrito Federal also supported the event.
And now we can add another date to our calendar, Oct 24 not to be missed.